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Rio Dulce feels like the meeting of two different worlds. Large, expensive looking yachts and sailboats dot the shores of the river close to the town of Fronteras. Sailors from all over the world stop here, and although many are seeking brief respite during their long voyages, some fall in love and never leave. Further upstream, remote fishing villages are tucked away in quiet corners of the mangroves. Locals in dugout canoes can be seen heading to fishing spots to cast their nets. Rio Dulce is not necessarily the kind of destination that is filled with many exciting activities and attractions. Rather, it is best appreciated for what it is: an incredibly rich and beautiful natural landscape that offers the ideal spot to slow down, disconnect, and tune into the sights and sounds of the jungle and river that surrounds you.
Admittedly, Rio Dulce was not initially high on our list of places we planned to go to in Guatemala. However, after hearing locals and visitors alike recommend it and even tell us that it was their favourite spot in the country, we figured we had to check it out. We were definitely not disappointed. At first glance, knowing where to stay and what to do within the large area of Rio Dulce can be a bit confusing. The remoteness of some spots along the river definitely adds logistical challenges and can make it more difficult to stick to a tight budget. We don’t want these factors to deter you, so we have shared some insights from our own experience in Rio Dulce. We hope to make things simpler for other budget-minded travellers that want to get the most out of this special place.
How to Get to Rio Dulce
From Flores
This is the route that we took, and as usual we opted to take a public bus since it was the cheapest option. We started at the Fuente Del Norte station, and a quick tuk tuk ride here from the island cost us 15 q per person (which could be made cheaper with some negotiating). Otherwise it is a 25 minute walk. The front of this station is full of larger, more comfortable first class buses. If you walk around to the backside, you will find the cheaper second and third class buses. We went with Transportes Marie Elena, which offered a direct bus to Rio Dulce for 130 q per person. There are three buses a day that leave at 7am, 11am, and 3pm.
The bus ride is supposed to take around 4.5 hours. Unfortunately for us, there were massive protests outside Rio Dulce that caused the road to be blocked for miles in every direction. Eventually, us and a few others grew tired of waiting at a dead stop in traffic and bailed on the bus about 5km outside town. We covered lots of the distance on foot before finding a tuk tuk that could ferry us and our massive bags the rest of the way into town.
Another option for getting from Flores to Rio Dulce is by using a shuttle service. These are extremely popular among backpackers in Guatemala and can be a fairly affordable option as well. For example, the well-known Gekko Explorer shuttle costs $24 USD or around 185 q for this route. Honestly, since taking the public bus was not that much cheaper than the shuttle, it could be a better option for those who are not concerned with saving every dollar possible and are looking for something a bit more comfortable and convenient.
From Guatemala City
For travellers coming from Guatemala City, there are several different options. There are both direct and indirect bus routes that involve a transfer. Litegua bus line is a popular option that offers regular and direct first class buses from the city to Rio Dulce for around 100-125 q. The ride takes at least 7.5 hours (but will take quite a bit longer depending on traffic) and you can book online ahead of time to secure your spot.
Another option is a shared shuttle. There are loads of different companies and tour operators that offer shuttles for this route and they can be found easily with a quick google search or arranged through your hostel. The shuttles generally cost around $30-45 USD, or 230-345 q. Some shuttles come all the way from Antigua, so if you are staying there it is not necessary to head to Guatemala City first. Based on the difference in price, we would recommend the bus over a shuttle in this case. First class buses are cheaper and are still a safe and comfortable way to get around.
From Lanquin (Semuc Champey)
If you are coming from Semuc Champey, things get a bit more complicated. There is no direct bus from here to Rio Dulce, and you will have to transfer multiple times if you hope to take public transportation. From Lanquin, you must take a collectivo to Cahabon. Next, you will either take a bus from here straight to El Estor or transfer in Panzos first. From El Estor you can finally board a collectivo to Rio Dulce. The upside is that the local system of buses and collectivos is incredibly cheap, and the whole journey should cost you less than $15 USD. This journey can however take a very long time, somewhere around 9 hours if everything lines up nicely.
There are also shuttles that operate between this route. Most cost around $40-50 USD or 306-383 q, and they can take upwards of 7 hours. They offer amenities like air-conditioning and some shuttles pick you up right from your hostel.
The bottom line is that if you are ready for a long, adventurous day and are keen to save money, public transportation is the way to go. If you are willing to sacrifice some budget for a lot more convenience and comfort, then a shuttle would be the best option.
What to Do in Rio Dulce
In our opinion, the best activities to do in Rio Dulce are the things that allow you to slow down and enjoy the laid back rhythms of the area. Sipping your coffee on a dock, watching a sunset, soaking up the sun then cooling off in the refreshing waters, and watching hundreds of fireflies light up the night sky is for us what Rio Dulce was all about. That being said, there are still plenty of fun activities in the area that are definitely worth the time. Below, we have listed all the things near Rio Dulce that we enjoyed the most and would definitely recommend.
Take a Boat Tour to Livingston
One of the most popular things to do in Rio Dulce is to take a boat tour, and chances are that your hostel or hotel will offer one that can be easily booked directly through them. If not, tours can be booked online. We arranged it through Hotel Casa Perico and it cost 200q per person for a tour up the river to Livingston, with a few pit stops in between to take in the sights. Though we admit that this isn’t the cheapest excursion for a budget traveller, we think that it’s worth it. As you travel deeper into the Rio Dulce canyon, the sights keep getting better and better and a sense of remoteness can be felt that isn’t evident near town.
After picking everyone up from their respective hotels in the morning, tours usually begin by passing the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, a Spanish colonial fort. This fort can also be visited alone if you do not go on a boat trip, and the entrance fee of 85q gives you access to both the Castillo and the surrounding park.
Our boat captain then led us to the different corners of the mangroves that were best for seeing lily pads and the colourful jacana birds that call them home. As we continued upstream we saw the aptly named bird island, where the peaceful quiet of the open water was swapped for the chaotic squawking of several different bird species. As we carried on, we passed small communities perched on the edge of the water and locals fishing from their canoes.
As we got closer to the ocean, the banks narrowed and turned into dramatic cliffs. Just when you think you are in a wholly uninhabited area of the river, the boat stops to let you off at a small store. This is the hot springs, and for an added cost you can take a dip in the warm waters here. Though this was very cool to see, we saved the hot spring dip for the waterfall the next day (see below).
After about two hours, we finally reached the coast and the small town of Livingston. We got dropped off at a dock in town and were given 4 hours to explore. Roaming the streets of Livingston, we felt as though we had been transported to an entirely different country. The Garifuna people have a distinct culture that gives Livingston a Caribbean vibe that’s very different from the inland. One option to spend your time in Livingston is to tackle the Siete Altares hike, which features scenic waterfalls. We were visiting during the dry season, and our boat captain told us that the hike wasn’t necessarily worth it since much of it was dry. We took his advice and opted to explore the town instead. Since we had come from Belize shortly before and had already had the chance to explore some Garifuna communities, Livingston didn’t feel as quite as unique as it might have. Personally, we thought that the 4 hours in town were more than we needed and we didn’t think that Livingston itself was overly scenic. The boat ride back was much quicker since we didn’t make many stops, and the cheap beer we bought in Livingston made the return trip even better. Overall, our favourite part of the tour was the time spent on the boat taking in the beautiful lush surroundings, and it was certainly worth it just for that.
Kayaking on the Rio Dulce
Kayaking offers a great way to get up close and personal with some of the unique flora and fauna of the area. This activity can be done as part of a guided tour or independently. There are multiple options for guided tours online, but we recommend renting your own kayaks since it allows you to travel at your own pace and focus on what you want to see, plus it is the more budget friendly option. One of the reasons we recommend Hotel Casa Perico (see below) is because they have free kayaks that guests can use whenever they want, for as long as they want. That means no annoying time constraints that come with usual rentals. We took advantage of the kayaks every day we were there and even got to go for a beautiful sunrise paddle, which really was a magical way to start off the day.
There are many great areas to be explored by kayak, and it’s up to you what you want to see. Travel along the banks of the hotel zone and admire the impressive yachts and luxurious hotels. Head towards Fronteras for beautiful views of Castillo de San Felipe. Or, explore the quieter pockets of mangrove and small channels of the rio to admire the rich nature. Click here for a link to the flower garden, a beautiful and secluded area that is packed full of colourful flowers, lily pads, and birds, the perfect spot to explore by kayak.
One thing to note about kayaking in this area is that you have to be very cautious of boat traffic, especially if you plan to cross to the opposite side of the river. It is quite busy and the boats move fast. In fact, while we were there there was a collision between two boats (luckily no one was seriously hurt). For obvious reasons, do not try to paddle in the dark, stick close to the shore when possible, and don’t forget your lifejackets!
Enjoy the Natural Hotsprings
There are a couple of different hot springs located near Rio Dulce. As we mentioned above, if you take a boat tour to Livingston you will most likely stop at the Centro Ecoturistico Agua Caliente, which is a beautiful little hot spring wedged right between the banks of the Rio Dulce and the surrounding rocky cliffs. Because these springs are located pretty far up the river, they must be accessed by boat or can be reached by kayak depending on where your accommodation is located. In addition to the springs, there are also caves here. For 25q you can get a mandatory guide who will show you the nearby caves, one of which forms a natural sort of sauna. There is a small restaurant at the springs as well where you can stop for a scenic lunch.
The other thermal spring located near Rio Dulce, and the one that we highly recommend, is Finca el Paraiso. I mean, what more could you want than a hot spring waterfall?! This place is a bit of a hidden gem that is well worth the day trip from Fronteras. It can be easily reached by collectivo, making for an inexpensive and incredibly relaxing spa-like experience. We won’t get into details here, because we wrote a whole article on this place. So if you want to know more, check it out here.
Where to Stay in Rio Dulce
In Fronteras or on the River?
Looking for accommodation in Rio Dulce can be a bit confusing and overwhelming at first, since it is a large area that extends all the way to Livingston on the Atlantic coast! There are really two main options for where to stay in this area- in the town of Rio Dulce, which is also known as Fronteras, or somewhere on the banks of the river itself. There are upsides and downsides to each of these.
Staying in the town of Rio Dulce is logistically easier for a few reasons. First of all, you are closer to grocery stores and other amenities that aren’t available further up the river. Fronteras is a decent sized town with pretty much everything you could need. Secondly, if you are staying on the river you have to arrange for a boat to pick you up and bring you to your hotel when you arrive. This may have an added cost and can be a pain in the butt if you have already had a long day of travel. There are a couple things to see in and around the town, like the Puente de Rio Dulce bridge, a few nice restaurant options, and some possible day trips like Finca el Paraiso. However, in our opinion the town of Rio Dulce is not that special in and of itself. Though a quick visit and walk around is nice, we think that the benefits of being more accessible are outweighed by the beauty of staying on the river.
If you plan to stay on the river, as we have mentioned you will have to arrange for a boat ride. Likely, your accommodation will prearrange this for you or provide some instructions on who to contact and where to go. Once you have arrived at your accommodation, you will need to arrange a boat for every subsequent trip into town for supplies, as well as on your return trip. For this reason we suggest that you choose an accommodation that offers cheap or free boat rides, which is one of the reasons we recommend Hotel Casa Perico for budget travellers. Another consideration is that if you are staying on the river, you will have to either rely on the food offered by your accommodation, which can mean a lot of expensive restaurant visits, or plan ahead a bit and pack some of your own food.
These added challenges are definitely worth it in our opinion. Staying on the river removes you from the hustle and bustle of town. As soon as you board the boat, you are transported into the quiet, peaceful ecosystems of the river, mangroves, and jungle. You will be able to enjoy the sights and sounds of nature from sunrise to sunset. If you are coming all the way to Rio Dulce to see the unique natural wonders of the area, you will probably be missing out on this a bit if you stay right in town.
The bottom line: we recommend stopping in Fronteras for a quick visit and stocking up on supplies before catching a boat to stay somewhere on the river itself.
A Wonderful Place to Stay
There are a lot of great options for accommodation around Rio Dulce. We chose to stay at Hotel Casa Perico, and we would definitely recommend it as a top option for budget-minded travellers. We really enjoyed our experience there, and after talking to fellow travellers staying in other places we think there are a few reasons why Hotel Casa Perico is a great choice. Keep in mind we aren’t affiliated with Hotel Casa Perico or make any money off recommending them, it’s just our honest opinion!
First of all, Hotel Casa Perico offers affordable dorm beds in a shared room in addition to private spaces, which many accommodations in the area don’t offer. The rooms were situated in rustic cabins with thatched roofs open to the jungle, which we thought only added to the charm. It still had all the amenities needed for a comfortable stay including clean bathrooms, fans, mosquito nets, internet, and comfortable beds. Another huge bonus were the kayaks that guests can use at no extra cost. We took advantage of this a lot, since it was a super fun, relaxing, and free activity that we could do. Hotel Casa Perico also offers a free boat ride from town and back when you arrive and leave, plus additional boat rides into town multiple times a day for 25q per person. This cuts costs a lot compared to other hotels that don’t offer a similar service.
The only major downside that we encountered while staying at Hotel Casa Perico was that you are not supposed to keep food in your room, and there is no shared kitchen for cooking. There is a restaurant offering reasonably priced (and reasonably good tasting) food, and cheap filtered water and coffee. You are somewhat forced to spend money at their restaurant or eat out when you go back into town, which can have some added cost. However, most of the other accommodations in the area seemed to have a similar system.
We hope this guide helps you out a bit if you are hoping to experience the best of Rio Dulce while sticking to a lower budget. Take it from us, it is definitely possible with a bit of planning ahead! We hope you enjoy this tranquil little corner of Guatemala as much as we did.
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