Table of Contents
There is just something about natural hot springs that make them so easy to love. Whether it’s the comforting feeling of a warm dip on a cool day, getting to spend time in nature appreciating unique geology, or benefitting from the natural healing properties of the mineral rich water, we can’t get enough of them. Jeremie and I have made a point of seeking out natural hot springs wherever we travel, and we can honestly say that Finca el Paraiso ranks as one of our favourites.
Located near Rio Dulce in Guatemala, Finca el Paraiso is no ordinary hot spring. What makes it unique is that the thermal water actually pours down on you from above, mixing with pools of cooler stream water below. Essentially, it’s like a big warm shower. I must say, after months of travelling Central America and having to get really comfortable with cold showers, this definitely hit the spot. Finca el Paraiso makes for a very easy and affordable day trip from Rio Dulce since it’s only a short collectivo ride away. It has also retained a bit of an off-the-beaten path feel, as it seems to be preferred by locals and it’s not really a main destination on the so-called gringo trail of Central America.
For all of these reasons and more, we think that these falls deserve a top spot on your Guatemala itinerary and that it is one of the best things to do near Rio Dulce. We have laid out all the details of our own experience below so you can easily figure out how to get there, what to expect, and how to get the most out of your visit. We hope this inspires you to get out there and enjoy it as much as we did! If you are staying in Rio Dulce, you can check out our post about accommodation, transportation and other activities in the area.
Time Needed
~45 min each way from Rio Dulce, plus at least an hour to enjoy the falls
Cost Breakdown
20q pp for the collectivo each way plus 20q pp for the entrance fee
Perfect for
swimming, relaxing sore muscles, enjoying nature, and getting off the beaten path
How to Get to Cataratas Finca el Paraiso
By Collectivo
If you are looking to take public transportation to Finca el Paraiso, you are most likely coming from Rio Dulce town or somewhere nearby which is where most tourists in the area stay. When we visited the falls we travelled from our accommodation on the river. Below, you can find all the necessary details on how to get from Rio Dulce town to Finca el Paraiso based on our own experience doing just that.
From the town of Rio Dulce, make your way to the bus stop located right underneath Puente de Rio Dulce on the end closest to the main part of town. This place is really hard to miss, it’s the giant bridge that spans the whole width of the river.
There is a delicious and cheap panaderia right across the street from the bus stop if you need to stock up on snacks before your journey
There will be a bunch of collectivos parked here. Take the opportunity to practice your Spanish and ask around, or just look for the van labeled “El Estor”. When you get on, you can tell the driver that you want to be dropped off at el Paraiso or Cascadas Calientes, or give him a heads up before you pass them on the way. The collectivo doesn’t exactly have regular stops so your driver will probably pass right by the falls if you forget to do this. The ride will most likely be a little bit bumpy and a lot crowded, but I actually quite enjoy collectivo rides since they feel like a glimpse into local life, and you are never quite sure what you are going to see. The collectivo cost us 20q per person and took about 45 minutes one-way.
On the way back, simply cross the highway right by the entrance to the falls and wait by the bus stop there. Wave down the collectivo when it drives by and they will stop for you as long as they aren’t full (and they’ll probably still stop for you even if they are full). You can also always try your hand at hitchhiking for even more of an adventure.
By Car
Finca el Paraiso is easy to reach by car. The road to get there from Rio Dulce is paved the entire way and drivable in any vehicle, and it is also quite scenic! From the town of Rio Dulce it should take around 30 minutes. The entrance to the falls is on the right side of the highway and not super obvious, so keep an eye out for the signs. There is a parking lot with ample space near the entrance, but be aware that you will likely be charged an extra fee of around 10q to park.
When we were at the falls, we met some very unhappy tourists who had been told that the falls were not accessible by vehicle, and that they needed to take a boat up Lago de Izabal (for a hefty cost) to access the falls. This is not true, the falls are easily accessible by car unless of course the road is blocked in rare circumstances.
Note: There are also private transportation options and guides that you can get from Rio Dulce if you feel more comfortable with this.
What to Expect
When you arrive you’ll be in a forested area and for the most part it’ll feel like you’re somewhat in the middle of nowhere, but trust the process. There are some washrooms, a restaurant, and even some camping spots here. There aren’t any facilities at the falls, so this is your last chance to use them. There is a guarded gate near the entrance, and this is where you pay a fee of 20q pp. From here, it is about a 10 minute walk down a dirt path to get to the springs. The path is well marked, but it may be a bit muddy and uneven so watch your footing.
When we were there, a lot of children from the nearby community came to walk alongside us and beg for money. Unfortunately, a friend of ours that visited the falls told us that when he offered the children money it started a fight amongst them that escalated and got physical. We aren’t trying to discourage you from giving to them, but if you do it might be a good idea to make sure it is something that can be easily split among all the kids. We have also heard that locals sometimes approach people here and ask them if they need a guide. Though a guide is not necessary for the path to the main falls, if you plan to hike further a local can show you some cool, more hidden spots in exchange for a fair tip. We have also heard some rumours online of thieves working in the area here, but when we went there was a man seemingly working at the falls and keeping an eye on things, and we felt quite safe.
As you descend the mossy steps at the end of the trail, the forest opens up and reveals a welcoming green pool. Steaming hot water fills the pool as it tumbles over unique, almost mushroom-like geological formations. This is the main part of the falls, and most people seem to stick to this area since it’s the largest and most accessible. There are some nooks and crannies in the rock under/behind the falls that you can sit in, and places to jump off into the main pool if the water level is high enough. If you climb over the stones (but be careful, they’re slippery!) upstream to the left side of the falls, there is a smaller pool tucked into the rock. The fish seem a bit less active here, and most people don’t bother to come up to this area so you might have it to yourself.
If you want to venture a bit further there are a few options. You can climb to the top of the falls via a trail. The water is the hottest here as it comes up from underground, and there is apparently some volcanic mud here that’s good for your skin. Across the falls on the other side, you can follow a trail that leads up and offers a good view of the springs and pools from above. If you continue farther upstream, there are canyons and even caves that are best explored with a local to guide you.
What’s the Catch?
Honestly, we can’t find many downsides to this place. Probably the most annoying thing to be aware of is the tiny fish that like to nibble on toes. If you’ve been swimming in many cenotes or creeks in Central America, you know the ones. Though they don’t exactly hurt, the feeling of so many tiny little mouths attacking your skin can be a bit disturbing. It is also sort of oddly satisfying. After all, some people pay good money for fish foot-bath pedicures. Either way, they can’t really be avoided so you have to keep moving or just embrace it.
Before going to Finca el Paraiso we had heard some complaints that the water temperature was too hot to enjoy. It is true that the water directly from the falls is almost too warm to stay under for any length of time. However, the water pours into and mixes with the pools of cool stream water below. This means that the water gets slightly warmer the closer you get to the falls, so you can wade around until you find the perfect spot.
When to Go
Obviously, the hot springs are best enjoyed during cooler weather which can be hard to come by in the jungles of Guatemala. The falls are accessible year round but in December and February you are more likely to get cooler weather.
In our opinion, the best time of day to visit is in the morning. When we went, we caught a collectivo from Rio Dulce at around 9:15am, and arrived at the falls around 10am. We were the first ones there and had the whole place to ourselves, which was extra magical. Steam was rolling off the falls and hanging in the chilly air, while the morning sun found its way through the forest canopy and covered the streams in beams of light. We have heard that the falls can get quite busy, and we did end up seeing quite a bit more people by lunch time. The falls open at 7am, and earlier is better for a more tranquil experience.
What to Pack
Pack all the essentials for a day of swimming like your swimsuits, towels, sun protection, and a change of clothes. Bug spray is also a very good idea. If you plan to hike upstream at all, waterproof shoes would be a big help on the slippery rocks, and a dry bag would also be useful.
Make sure to carry some small change for the collectivo and for the entrance fee, since workers don’t always carry enough change for big bills.
Finally, packing some snacks is a good idea. There is a small restaurant at the entrance as well as locals selling snacks by the road, but options are limited. We did buy some fresh and delicious bananas from one of the roadside vendors. It’s also a good idea to bring lots of water to replenish yourself after you sweat it out at the falls.
Where to Stay?
Finca el Paraíso can be easily completed as a day trip from Rio Dulce, even if you are staying further up the lagoon or river and need to factor in time for a boat ride. We stayed at Casa Perico, here is our post about it and everything else Rio Dulce. If you want to stay closer to the falls, there are a couple different options. There is camping right as the entrance, as well as some nearby bungalows and hotels. If you stay near the falls, keep in mind that there is a limited amount of restaurants, stores, and other facilities nearby.
An Afternoon Picnic
Shortly after we arrived at the falls, we saw some locals carefully making their way down the dirt path carrying all sorts of heavy looking bags and coolers. They placed their things at the shore of the pool and quickly started a fire, then placed a massive cast iron pot over the flames. With a pot that size, we couldn’t help but wonder if they were having an extravagant family picnic or if they came to the falls to sell their food. Our curiosity definitely increased as the delicious smells wafted over to us for hours as we lounged by the falls.
Later, the pot was taken off the fire and the family gathered to share their meal. Surprisingly, they waved us and the couple other tourists at the falls over and paper plates began to be passed around to everyone. The contents of the pot were revealed- a hearty chicken and vegetable soup. To dip in the soup, there was masa steamed in banana leaves accompanied with a homemade chili sauce. The meal was rounded out with Jamaica juice (made from hibiscus flowers) flavoured with all parts of a pineapple, including the rind. Jeremie and I agreed this was one of the best juices we’ve had in a very long time. Someone else came over and added fresh watermelon to the mix.
The meal left us with full bellies and a sense of gratefulness for the locals that were kind enough to let us join their family meal. Though we offered to repay their kindness, they refused and explained that they like to have picnics by the falls where they make enough to share and allow new people to try their traditional food. Despite language barriers, we chatted and learned the different Indigenous Mayan and Spanish names for the food. Afterward, even the stray dogs came by and shared in what was left of the chicken soup. As amazing as the falls were, this was the true highlight of our day. It felt like a good representation of our experience with the people of Guatemala overall, who are not only kind and generous but eager to show others a glimpse of their rich cultures.
Recent Posts
